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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 116 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 213 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 97 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 98 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 8 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 99 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 100 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 101 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for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 135 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 136 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 137 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 143 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 144 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 145 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 146 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 147 Warning: require(): Unable 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Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 156 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 157 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 158 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 159 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 160 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 161 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 162 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 163 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 164 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 165 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 166 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 167 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 168 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 169 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 170 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 171 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line 179 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 180 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 181 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 182 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 183 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 184 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 185 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 186 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 187 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 188 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 189 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 190 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 191 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 192 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 20 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 23 Warning: require(): 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 196 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 197 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 198 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 199 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 200 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 201 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 202 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 203 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 216 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 217 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 218 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 219 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 220 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/nav-menu-template.php on line 11 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 221 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 222 Warning: require(): Unable to 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require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 239 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 240 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 241 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 290 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 385 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 387 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate 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pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 408 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 409 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 410 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 412 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 413 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 414 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 416 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 417 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 418 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 419 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 421 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 422 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 423 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 424 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 425 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 427 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 428 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 429 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 431 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 432 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 48 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 49 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 50 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on 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El vino último

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Paula Nevado
Fotografía: Paula Nevado

Los ritos se celebran de manera invariable; se rigen por normas fijas establecidas en un tiempo remoto. Algunos se escenifican de manera decidida y escueta como el escanciado de venencia de los vinos del sur. Otros se revisten de mayores y prolijas liturgias que tienen que ver (o de allí provienen) con las religiones y otras formas supersticiosas de relación del hombre con su entorno misterioso y en ocasiones hostil.

Me refiero ahora a los primeros; quiero hablar exactamente del escanciado de cuatro venencias -exactamente cuatro-de amontillado en otras tantas copas a modo de celebración o bienvenida del amigo por los pagos de Montilla. Vale con subir dos peldaños de escalera de bodega, el desplazamiento del corcho de la bota y un golpe de muñeca contra su barriga líquida para que aparezca de repente el oro cobrizo más antiguo y trascendente de la vinatea montillana o jerezana: el amontillado.

No existe vino que merezca el apellido de amontillado, que no sea único y último, o sea, guardián de las fronteras de la excelencia. El que nos ofreció Juan Portero en Casa Palop, su edén desconchado y mítico, viene de ese corte entre imposible y misterioso. Un trago de este amontillado (pipa adquirida en 1940, dada su excepcional solera, que venía arrastrando virtud desde el más profundo XIX), se traduce en una explosión aturdidora de sales poderosas que inundan el paladar último con perfumes como navajas inofensivas. Un sorbo de este amontillado equivale a un mendrugo líquido de eternidad o, acaso, a la cata inverosímil de lo definitivamente acabado. Sí, más allá de estos vinos no hay nada, ellos son el límite, el fin del camino: el vino último.

Al ser tan antiguos y convivir con nuestros mitos creacionales y la aparición de los primeros dioses del Mediterráneo oriental, transportan en sus genes recuerdos de las voces primigenias, esas que en nuestros tiempos presentes encierran las canciones de la egipcia Oum Kalsoum, y ahora nos traen espíritus flamencos como Carmen Linares; voces de tarantas y templos huecos que detienen el tiempo con todos sus materiales históricos dentro: goce y sacrificio. Vinos, por tanto, muy difíciles de entender y casi imposibles de descifrar; incalificables y sin precio. Son como los últimos cantos rodados de la memoria, algo así como la penúltima boya donde agarrarnos y descubrir que tuvimos un pasado pegado a la naturaleza y la belleza.

Son vinos raros que protege el sur para el disfrute de muy pocos. Vinos que pueden a cualquier bocado, llámese éste queso viejo, jamón ibérico, sardinas o alcachofas. Son los titanes del paladar, los defensores imbatibles de esas imaginarias Termópilas del gusto que son las papilas gustativas. Se imponen en cualquier batalla, y su olor y recuerdo se quedan en las sedas de la memoria tan encastrados como los trilobites.

 

Música en vivo

 

El amontillado, pese a su excelencia y la dedicación máxima que le prestan los bodegueros andaluces más románticos (no hay bodega que merezca la pena sin un dueño con ramalazos de locura), va desapareciendo o, mejor dicho, se mantiene en las bodegas y sus hojas promocionales como un signo de distinción, como quien se adorna con una pareja de hermosos dogos azules rusos o se distingue con una cripta abovedada de ladrillo de principios del siglo XVI.

En la selva casi impracticable que se ha convertido el mundo para la venta de estos vinos generosos y, en general, todos los finos andaluces, los milicianos del Pedro Ximénez o la Palomino jerezana, se han constituido en mínimas guerrillas de marcas primorosas, algunas muy singulares, con la pretensión de filtrarse por cualquier colena que se preste. Lo tienen muy difícil porque estos vinos son seres vivos que se  agotan y descreman en el transporte. Y nadie ha descubierto aún la fórmula para que continúen siendo exquisitos una vez muertos.

Son vinos, mientras tanto, para el disfrute en su terruño donde siempre son fruta fresca y el aroma en su esencia. Acaso por ello la ciudad de Córdoba sea desde hace unos cuantos años la capital española del vino fino, el genuino blanco del sur. Si aún no lo ha disfrutado, se está perdiendo uno de los más grandes conciertos naturales de los aromas. ¿Qué prefiere: música en vivo o enlatada?

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PAULA NEVADO
A Paula Nevado, su inquietud y sensibilidad familiar, le han llevado a formarse en diferentes disciplinas creativas y trabajos artesanales. Desde hace años se las tiene con la luz y sus caprichos para adobar con ellos las imágenes que le interesan. Con esta colaboración traslada de manera abierta la búsqueda del mundo que solo puede capturar su ojo. Puedes seguir su trabajo en Instagram: @paula_nevado

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Este blog nace de la necesidad de contar algo, por insignificante que sea, sobre todo aquello que me interesa o inquieta y que casi siempre tendrá relación con la comunicación humana en su sentido más amplio.

La política, la economía, las artes, los placeres de la vida, como la gastronomía, el cine o la literatura tienen aquí cabida. El mundo actual en crisis se ha convertido en una noria de opiniones libérrimas, con frecuencia desencajadas, que se afanan en la crítica feroz más que en tejer futuro.

Los líderes sociales de aquí y allá, lo admitan o no, se han quedado sin respuestas. Continúan sus tareas con torpeza ayudados por viejas recetas que abandonan de inmediato porque ninguna le sirve.

En esta especie de equivocación colectiva en la que estamos embarcados, este bloguero sólo pretende vivaquear en nuestro azaroso caminar a tientas con la pretensión de encontrar en alguna ocasión esa pepita de luz que nos recuerde que la esperanza es la emoción humana más necesaria de recuperar en este tiempo.