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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 116 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 213 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 97 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 98 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 8 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 99 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 100 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 101 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for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 135 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 136 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 137 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 143 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 144 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 145 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 146 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 147 Warning: require(): Unable 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Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 156 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 157 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 158 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 159 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 160 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 161 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 162 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 163 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 164 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 165 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 166 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 167 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 168 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 169 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 170 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 171 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line 179 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 180 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 181 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 182 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 183 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 184 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 185 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 186 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 187 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 188 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 189 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 190 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 191 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 192 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 20 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 23 Warning: require(): 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 196 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 197 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 198 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 199 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 200 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 201 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 202 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 203 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 216 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 217 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 218 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 219 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 220 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/nav-menu-template.php on line 11 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 221 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 222 Warning: require(): Unable to 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require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 239 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 240 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 241 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 290 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/add-to-any.php on line 29 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/add-to-any.php on line 30 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 385 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 387 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 388 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 389 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 403 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 404 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 406 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 407 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 408 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 409 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 410 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 412 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 413 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 414 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 416 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 417 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 418 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 419 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 421 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 422 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 423 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 424 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 425 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 427 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 428 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 429 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 431 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 432 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 48 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 49 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 50 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/akismet/akismet.php on line 62 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for 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La cocina en una maleta

Cuadro de Teresa Muñiz
Cuadro de Teresa Muñiz

La alta cocina viaja hoy en una maleta. Ya no son precisos esos remolques/tienda que se abren por los cuatro costados para ofrecer todo tipo de viandas, desde la hamburguesa al plato caliente de lentejas. Hace unos días el cocinero italiano Massimo Bottura (maestro de ceremonias del restaurante Ostreria Francescana, tres estrella Michelin y segundo restaurante del mundo, según la revista británica Restaurant) se plantó en Londres con su valija repleta de parmesano, pasta artesanal y vinagre balsámico, y dio una cena para doce mesas (350€ cubierto más 135€ el vino) en la sala de subastas Sotheby´s rodeado de pinturas de Bacon y Freud listas para la subasta. Este mismo cocinero y artista había ofrecido otra exhibición meses antes en una casa de comidas para necesitados de Cáritas en Milán. Como observamos, es un hombre políticamente correcto al tiempo que un reto para las mismas vanguardias, pues hasta Warhol le inspira ensaladas.

La comida pues, con su rastro de historia humeante y eterna memoria, continúa siendo viajera hoy más que nunca. Viajera y mestiza, porque casi siempre se le pega algo de las nuevas tierras que hoya. Ahora a esta mezcla se le llama fusión. Y si hay un territorio que más conozca de sabores, improvisación y días al sol humeantes, es el del hombre que circunda el Mediterráneo, ese que respira la sal del mar desde su orilla. Y el que destaca de entre todos es el italiano. Porque los tanos zarparon al mar desde el principio de su historia, desde las primeras glorias de las trirremes republicanas, pasando por el esplendor comercial de Venecia y Génova y, aún hoy, cuando socorren, con el corazón más que con la mano, a decenas de miles de refugiados de nuestro eterno y atormentado sur.

Francesco Dassisti es un joven cocinero que llega a Madrid desde Apulia (Puglia), esa tierra que da forma al talón de la bota italiana, llena de cereales, aceite, salazones y excavaciones históricas. Me mira fijamente con sus ojos trasparentes y calla, con asomo de gran atención, cuando balbuceo alguna pregunta sobre la carta del restaurante en el ejerce de chef. Estamos en SiniQual (José Ortega y Gasset, 73, Madrid), una apuesta gastronómica mestiza que arrastra con personalidad hasta el barrio de Salamanca algunos de los platos que distinguen a nuestra cultura mediterránea. Podemos comer un pollo al curry con manzana reinetas y arroz blanco, receta que nos llegó de Libia; el kebak siniQual con salsas de yoghurt y tomate, prestado de la tradición turca, o el falafel de garbanzos, invento egipcio. Claro que la inspiración italiana se despliega con generosidad por la carta (raviolis rellenos de alcachofas con almejas, tomatitos…, queso burratina con tomate de huerta…), como también se impone el sabor elaborado de los mejores platos españoles (parrilladas de verduras, merluzas a la marinera, carrilleras…).

Estamos ante una apuesta gastronómica singular y también visual ( el restaurante es un blanquísimo local amueblado de color: diversidad ordenada), que nos trae a la mesa aquello que sobrevivió a ese largo viaje de la vida que es la historia. Y todo ello interpretado por un italiano; si un heredero de esos maestros del sincretismo y el espectáculo. Aunque también se aprecia la osadía por la diferencia que imponen los dueños.

Tomé una ensalada del menú a base de espinacas muy bien aliñada, una cata de garganelli freco y, tras la insistencia del chef, un kebak de pollo. Todo en su sabor sin agobiar con las intensidades. Al salir, observé una amplia terraza bañada por la calima de las cuatro de la tarde. En las noches más que templadas de Madrid el trago aquí puede ser amable.

Y no creo que me equivoque, porque un ejército de alcoholes hace de sombrero de la gran barra que nos recibe al entrar en el local. Luego pensé que antes sólo viajaban el vino, acaso la cerveza, y en las sacristías de los capitanes de buques algunas botellas de elixires como tesoros. Hoy el alcohol destilado hace bailar al mundo. Que se lo pregunten a los dueños de vodka Smirnoff.

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Un comentario en “La cocina en una maleta”

  1. Parece una buena sugerencia ,lastima que no este en Chamberi

    habra que desplazarse,viajando se aprende. No comente nada de tus anteriores en las latas no te refieres a las mejores consevas gallegas
    Frigsa,y los mejillones de Escuris,la bandera de nuestros hijos,ojala,me temo que es mas un deseo por tu parte que una realidad

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