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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 116 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/random_compat/random.php on line 213 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 97 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 98 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 8 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 99 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 100 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 101 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for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 135 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 136 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 137 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 143 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 144 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 145 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 146 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 147 Warning: require(): Unable 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Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 156 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 157 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 158 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 159 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 160 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 161 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 162 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 163 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 164 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 165 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 166 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 167 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 168 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 169 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 170 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 171 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line 179 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 180 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 181 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 182 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 183 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 184 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 185 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 186 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 187 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 188 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 189 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 190 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 191 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 192 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 20 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/script-loader.php on line 23 Warning: require(): 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 196 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 197 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 198 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 199 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 200 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 201 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 202 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 203 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for 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/var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 216 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 217 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 218 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 219 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 220 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-includes/nav-menu-template.php on line 11 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 221 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 222 Warning: require(): Unable to 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require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 239 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 240 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 241 Warning: require(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 290 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/add-to-any.php on line 29 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/add-to-any.php on line 30 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 385 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 387 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 388 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 389 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 403 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 404 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 406 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 407 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 408 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 409 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 410 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 412 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 413 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 414 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 416 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 417 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 418 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 419 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 421 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 422 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 423 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 424 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 425 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 427 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 428 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 429 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 431 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-content/plugins/advanced-custom-fields/acf.php on line 432 Warning: include_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in /var/www/vhost/pepenevado.es/home/html/wp-settings.php on line 303 Warning: require_once(): Unable to allocate memory for pool. in 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Chicago: Rascacielos que Comen Carne de Vaca y Cantan Blues

Teresa Muñiz. Noctiluca. Óleo sobre tela 250 cm x 250 cm
Fotografía: Teresa Muñiz. Noctiluca. Óleo sobre tela 250 cm x 250 cm

 

Teresa Muñiz. Noctiluca. Óleo sobre tela 250 cm x 250 cm
Teresa Muñiz. Noctiluca. Óleo sobre tela 250 cm x 250 cm

No sé si le ocurre a todo el mundo, pero a mí sí: existen ciudades sobre las que tengo hecha una idea sin haberlas visitado. Hace unos meses, cuando decidí ir a Chicago, garabatee la siguiente nota en el reverso de la hoja que acreditaba la compra del pasaje: ” Ciudad norteamericana con cara de europeos y legiones de negros y mexicanos. Un río, el Chicago, tachuelado de fornidos puentes levadizos. Barones del crimen y la especulación inmobiliaria a buen paso por las avenidas y trabajo duro, carne de vaca, sexo y blues. En las calles de la zona norte, entorno al Lake Store Blue Drive, huele a aristocracia y el centro, llamado Loop, es sucio y ruidoso como todos los centros de las ciudades de Norteamérica. El ferrocarril parte la ciudad hasta hacerla dolerse con sus chirridos. Pero los huéspedes de los buenos hoteles no tienen noticia de ello, sus alfombras rojas lo amortiguan todo. También habita la mafia en un barrio llamado Cícero y en los guetos negros del sur menudean las bandas criminales. Pero en los Evenstan del norte no ocurre nada de ello, allí huele a perfume de jardín, aunque las caras de sus vecinos recuerdan la crudeza de los millones de vacas sacrificadas con machotas en los corralones del oeste que tan inmensamente ricos los hicieron. Chicago es una gran ciudad americana llena de hombres hechos así mismos centímetro a centímetro”.

Ya en Chicago, hablo con Celia, una argentina de padre español que vive en la ciudad desde hace más de treinta años. Comenta muy bajito que “por el sur de la ciudad ha vuelto la mafia (…) que la crisis económica fue muy grande y que el tiempo y la ayuda federal aún no han despejado el futuro”. El policía de fronteras mexicano de Chihuahua,”pero que nací aquí, eh”, culpa a la crisis de las grandes colas en el control de pasaportes. Sensy, guatemalteca que sirve desayunos en un local del centro y que le “pierden las cookies “, comenta que se lleva a casa “20 dólares  por una mañana de trabajo”. Y Simón B.,”letrista de country rock y  homosexual”, confirma ” que esto es una mierda (…) vivo gracias a la emoción que me producen los garitos de blues y las voces de las mujeres negras mayores”. Pero aclara, ” No te equivoques, aquí no se suicidará nadie como en Europa y Argentina (?)(…) Cuando decidamos que Chicago ha muerto nos iremos a otro lugar como antes vinimos a esta ciudad de hielo, barro, carne, especuladores, bandidos y blues”.

Bien, estos y otros muchos comentarios de ciudadanos de Chicago, luego no pueden ser confirmados por el viajero, pues por lo general no llega a estar en la ciudad del lago más de tres o cuatro días, se aloja en un hotel decente y sigue la vereda que le marca la guía de turno. Y aunque también se oriente por “esa idea” que tiene de la ciudad y los apuntes que sacó a un amigo, tampoco llegará a mucho más. El turista moderno se trae de las ciudades que visita poco más que la postal con la que se promocionan con un comentario al pie que dice “Yo estuve aquí”. Claro que puede tener sorpresas como ser atracado o seducido por un beso, y ese desconcierto que produce pasear por otras culturas y el roce con otros temperamentos.

Situada de esta manera la cuestión, diré que la Chicago que he visitado en los albores de mayo es una ciudad hermosa, erizada de rascacielos en el norte y centro y extensa como una Patagonia con vida. La gente con la que traté siempre fue amable y los trabajadores diligentes y eficaces. Como me ocurrió cuando fui a Nueva York, no me sentí extraño. Me reconocí en sus calles, su acento americano imposible y ese español casi susurrado de tantos mexicanos. Como cualquier curioso que se cuela, advertido o no, en un lugar vedado, siempre recibí el alto sin reprensión, sin voces ni amenazas. Y esto, al tiempo que se agradece, dice mucho de la geografía humana de un pueblo.

Chicago también es sus edificios, calles, plazas, bulevares, barrios y distritos. Puede gustar más o menos, pero nada es desechable o execrable (acaso las autopistas que serpentean la ciudad adolecen de la molicie y burricie del cemento y sus excesos). Se percibe que la edificación viene de buena cuna y que han existido en el tiempo autoridades municipales que han sabido cuidarla. Para los legos en arquitectura y urbanismo como yo, debería bastar con la espectacularidad de sus rascacielos para caer rendido por el asombro. Pero esta ciudad dice más. Conviven en un mismo haz de manzanas el edificio que juega con las nubes, el bloque de seis pisos y la casita burguesa convencional. Y nada borra la armonía, no desentona la enorme diferencia de volúmenes, estilos o épocas de construcción. La razón está, creo yo, en que todos los edificios nacieron al cuidado de la calidad de un diseño, el valor de los materiales y algo imperceptible pero decisivo: el amor por la mejor arquitectura de cada momento.

He paseado por diferentes ciudades en las que el rascacielos convive con otras edificaciones y el resultado es espantoso. Sao Paulo o Caracas, en América, o Hong Kong y Manila, en Oriente, son ejemplos de feísmo y fallidos intentos de transformación urbana. Chicago no. En esta ciudad conviven sin roce el cristal con el acero, el ladrillo con el cemento y las resinas. Y algo aún más difícil: los egos desmedidos de los grandes arquitectos del momento no consiguen agredir su skyline con un bodrio supino a pesar de sus feroces batallas por alcanzar récord. En el hotel me encontré con un joven arquitecto valenciano. Viaja a Chicago “para ver”. Me recomendó que no dejara de pasear en barco por el río que cruza la ciudad y admirar en todo su esplendor los titanes de nuestro tiempo. Tenía razón: el mejor espectáculo de Chicago se ve desde el agua.

En Chicago también se come, se bebe y de entretiene uno. Pero en este terreno las noticias no son tan agradables. La comida normal es imposible y el vino y la cerveza tienen precios disparatados. Hay numerosos locales con músicas en vivo francamente buenos, pero es recomendable comer y beber en ellos lo mínimo imprescindible para que no te larguen. El ochenta por ciento de lo que se consume viene del pan, la patata, la carne y las salsas. ¡Y en que cantidades!. Las ensaladas son muy caras, un lujo, y una buena naranja puede costar como dos horas de trabajo de una linda camarera. En este terreno, Chicago – como en general la Norteamérica que conozco – tiene un enorme camino por recorrer. Su dieta se arrastra por la cola del mundo. Sólo se salvan del mal comer sus elites a las que tanto imitan la gente sencilla pero no en lo que comen. Cuando España ha dejado de ser tierra de braceros para convertirse en nación de licenciados sin destino, y cuando los toreros van dejando paso a legiones de cocineros, chefs, sommeliers, reposteros y restauradores, bueno sería que reparáramos en la nación de Obama y emigrar (bueno, no, ejercitarnos en “la movilidad exterior”, que diría nuestra ministra de empleo, señora Báñez) hasta sus fogones para ayudarles a descubrir que el sentido del gusto y el olfato, la cultura de la conversación y la risa se practica de manera más refinada y saludable utilizando otras viandas y otras proporciones. ¿Han reparado en el tamaño de las hamburguesas americanas ?. Son montañas de grasa embadurnadas de salsas de tomate y otras, además de mostaza, entre hogazas de pan con temple de chicle.

Cuando me dirigía en taxi a Anderson Village, el nuevo rincón gay de la ciudad,  el taxista hizo un gesto con su brazo izquierdo y dijo: “Here is where Alcapone lived” . Y me vino a la cabeza la cara de ratón de Eduardo G. Robinson y ese James Cagney armado de determinación y pistola. También recordé el comentario que me hiciera Celia. ¿Vivirá la mafia como en aquellos tiempos?. En la guía que llevo aparecen como celebridades de Chicago sus mafiosos y atracadores más notables. No me cabe duda de que los grandes editores de la ciudad esperan a que cuajen nuevas leyendas – que aún abrazan las sombras – para inmortalizarlas. Las subprimes hicieron aquí estragos. Por ese lado deberán estar investigando los creadores de mitos.

TERESA MUÑIZ es asturiana pero hecha en Madrid, donde estudio en laEscuela de Bellas Artes de San Fernado, y vive. Crea y enseña pintura desde siempre. La abstración, el color, la determinación y el misterio son los puntales de su obra. Admira algunas de sus pinturas en su web.

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Este blog nace de la necesidad de contar algo, por insignificante que sea, sobre todo aquello que me interesa o inquieta y que casi siempre tendrá relación con la comunicación humana en su sentido más amplio.

La política, la economía, las artes, los placeres de la vida, como la gastronomía, el cine o la literatura tienen aquí cabida. El mundo actual en crisis se ha convertido en una noria de opiniones libérrimas, con frecuencia desencajadas, que se afanan en la crítica feroz más que en tejer futuro.

Los líderes sociales de aquí y allá, lo admitan o no, se han quedado sin respuestas. Continúan sus tareas con torpeza ayudados por viejas recetas que abandonan de inmediato porque ninguna le sirve.

En esta especie de equivocación colectiva en la que estamos embarcados, este bloguero sólo pretende vivaquear en nuestro azaroso caminar a tientas con la pretensión de encontrar en alguna ocasión esa pepita de luz que nos recuerde que la esperanza es la emoción humana más necesaria de recuperar en este tiempo.